Laos is wonderfully beautiful. From the impossibly beautiful landscapes ranging from riverside vistas, patch worked farmlands to striking limestone karsts. What I found more amazing (which continues to prevail throughout South East Asia) was the kindness and hospitality offered by the local people.
Life in Laos is centered on farming and rural villages. Even the capital of the country, Vientiane, is the only thing which would come close to being called a ‘city’ was most of the time 'quiet.' A few kilometers on either side of the city you’re again greeted with grazing cows and green rice paddies.
Entering Ban Kong Lo
In the south of Laos I’d been given tips about an underground cave which was described by other travelers as, ‘one of the most amazing caves’ they’d ever seen. Destination: Tham Kong Lo. Indeed the cave was spectacular with visitors making a popular day trip from Tha Kheak to visit. But what many visitors fail to discover is the charm, positivity and amazing people who live in the villages around the cave.
Hanging out around the cave
Originally I stayed with a family near the cave for 3 days; exploring the village and swimming in the cave lagoon. But after finding out about plans for a resort development close to the entrance of the cave I was drawn back a second time to absorb the village which I came to love before the possibility of rampant development would change it forever. A French man who had been coming to the village for 10 years said that, ‘the change is coming. It’s still like it was 5 years ago.. but as soon as it gets put in the Lonely Planet, it’s over.’ The January 2011 edition of the LP listed for the first time the only guesthouse which has recently been built in the village.
It’s a struggle to accurately describe the town and capture all the dynamics. One thing which is certain is that a strong sense of community exists.
Smiling faces in the village
Hanging out about the village
In the mornings the girls come and bang on my door to wake me up.. ‘Bianca, Bianca!!’ We eat breakfast around a small table beside the kitchen fire before walking to school. Books clutched against their chest the girls stop by friends’ houses on the way to pick up friends before we reach the dusty school grounds. There are 5 classrooms and children are roughly grouped by age. There are only 5 teachers so sometimes, when all children are in the classroom and aren’t helping in fields, there are 40 or more children in each classroom. It’s difficult sometimes for the teachers to control all the kids and is frustrating to see those who really want to learn hindered by those distracted individuals who couldn’t care less. There is not a strong emphasis places on learning as the children will eventually help their families with farming or with the eco-tourism project based around the cave.
Hanging out at school
Which is quite impressive. As you enter the cave grounds some polite young Laos boy will ask you if you need help. Unlike many parts of South East Asia the tourism based around the cave is relaxed and fair. The boat-men take in turns to transit tourists through the caves, there’s a list and they are called by surname. The women will point you to someone else’s noodle/drink-stand if they have already had many customers themselves. There are no signs of the desperation for business that can be seen destroying the sense of community and balance of life in other places; Vang Vieng instantly springs to mind. No-one speaks much English but which hand gestures and a smile.. it works.
At the height of the day the sun is blaringly hot. School takes an intermission. And the mood slackens to a slower pace. When it gets much too hot my little Laos sisters ask, ‘Bai am num?’ We pile up 4 on a bicycle and they make me ride them to the lagoon for a midday cool-off. Really the only way to escape the heat.
Hanging out at the lagoon
Hanging out at the house
When the afternoon school session finishes the ladies go fishing for the evening’s dinner while the kids take some of the smaller nets and help. Occasionally some of the boys come to help when they’re not on ‘boat duty,’ a grand laugh listening to their squeals and giggles. Depending on which fishing hole we’re at Dali and I go to pick mangoes or cucumbers to snack on and duck past the veggie patch on the way home to pick up more herbs for dinner.
Fishing and at the veggie patch
My little home on the right
The village chief organized evening English lessons for the time I was there in the village ‘office’ to try and teach the boat-men some basic phrases which will help them when guiding tourists through the cave. The men, young and old, gather with their little notepads and pens eager to learn some new phrases to joke and communicate with the tourists. Our teaching materials consisted of a blackboard and one Laos-English phrasebook which someone had from many years ago. So I improvise writing and speaking Laos on the blackboard (with a little help) and try to construct logical sentences from the existing poor translations. The boys all wave to the tourists and giggle when they can practice their new English.
A sure highlight from my time in Laos was attending a full-moon festival. And not like those that jump to mind with fluro-painted drunkards dancing about. This one was hidden in the next village from Ban Kong Lo down by the river. I smiled while I watched the village girls ‘get ready.’ Some things will be the same world over; girls will be girls. They put on the little makeup they had, did their hair and fussed over their clothes, changing and changing again. We rode out on bicycles and trekked through the dark ghost-like village to find the party which seemed to be in the middle-of-nowhere. We crossed a group of boys who obviously made the girls nervous as they giggled and dragged me to run away whenever they got closer. The men set-up gambling games and the ladies sold barbequed goods and sweet treats. Like at any good Laos celebration there was truckloads of Beer-Lao and ridiculous dancing to the backdrop of a pop-influenced take on traditional Laos music. We danced and laughed till we were tired.. we still had to make the ride home and after all it was a school night.
Full moon rising
Getting ready and riding to the party
My last night in the village I had a sleep-over with one of the closest friends I made in the village. We laid in bed talking with what limited Laos I knew and about the equivalent English that Dali knew. But somehow we were always able to communicate. I teased her that next time I visited she would be married and she teased me back that next time I came I’d have babies for her to play with.
Some of my favorite little sisters
Traditional bon voyage Baci ceremony
During the two weeks I was taken in by the people of the village and warmly welcomed in their lives. Anybody else who has had the pleasure of visiting this village would be quick to agree with me when I speak of generosity of the amazing people who live here. I am continued to be completely inspired by those people who have nothing but have the most to give.
